"Mystical India"
by
Wallace Dorian

I had never traveled outside the United States until I visited Mumbai, (Formerly Bombay) India. Ironically, I was always attracted to "Hindu" religion and philosophy since the 1970's when I got into yoga and meditation so I found it "karmic" as they say, to be going there. The first visit was an all-expense paid, 3 week excursion working for a "Bollywood" movie producer in October 2002. Of course, because I knew nothing but 5-star hotels, I was pretty much sheltered from the day to day bustle which lurked on the busy, noisy streets below me. India is a kaleidoscope of color, a festival for the eyes. And since I never go anywhere as a tourist per se, there is an excitement as well as danger that permeates the air. Hindu-Muslim riots have been known to break.

But I love India for its sense of terror that something could happen at any moment and the exhilaration of being far away from America, a stranger in a strange land as it were. The ancient mixed with the modern or what I term, "cell phones amidst human squalor." Yes, for all it's vast wealth, India is also a country where one million homeless and impoverished people live in the streets of Mumbai.

For the newcomer, India can be a harrowing experience. It gets very hot, tropical hot. The heat permeates the soles of your shoes and the sun burns into your soul. In India, there is a smell in the air of human and animal feces mixed with the sweet smell of incense and garbage being burned in the streets. Like most urban cities in the world, Mumbai's air is heavily polluted with the fumes of thousands of motor rickshaws, taxis, buses and cars. On any given day one sees cows, water buffalo, an occasional elephant with rider and there is nothing more surreal than waking up early in the morning to the sight of a camel lumbering down the street.

India is primarily a country of gods and goddesses. Not just commerce, technology and industry. Pictures of Hindu gods like Krishna, Shiva, Brahma, and Ganesha, are commonplace. There are virtually thousands of temples in which pilgrims and worshipers flock daily to worship their god.

It wasn't until my second trip to India in January 2003 that I finally went to visit Vrndavana, a village the Hindus or "Vaisnavas," (Devotees of Krishna,) consider to be the holiest place on earth, indeed, in the universe. It is known as Vrndavana in Mathura district roughly 900 miles Northeast of Mumbai. Why is it so holy? Because Lord Krishna took birth there 5,000 years ago and one can feel and perceive it, just by spending only a few days there. It is very hard to describe how an area of 84 square miles with 5,000 temples can be so surcharged with the kind of spiritual energy I had never experienced before. It still retained the charm of a small village although in India with a population of one billion people, "small" can mean a million or under.


Watch out for the monkeys that run wild in Vrndavana. They're very clever and move swiftly to steal the glasses off your face or a bag of potato chips from your hand. They can be quite vicious. I was surprised at their size as well, almost mini-baboons.

The foreign exchange rate in India is 44-46 Rs. (Rupees) for $1 USD. So as far as living arrangements are concerned there are many hotels and "ashrams" that by American standards are cheap, say, 200-600 Rs. per day or an apartment for 1,000-3,000 Rs. per month.

My train trip from Mumbai took 20 hours but I saw the beautiful, lush scenery and small villages and farms that peppered the country enroute. I went 1st class but on my return trip, I chose second class which was a bit more harrowing. There is so much to say about mystical India but perhaps the best way to experience it first-hand is to just go there. I hope to return again soon.