| Adjusting
to the culture of Baja Sur is a challenge for many Norté Americanos.
For tourists, the culture shock is fairly short-lived. They relax,
see some amazing sights and comment on some of the differences
they notice, usually with a smile on their faces. Then, they go
home with memories and a new tan. For the gringo who is staying
to live here part-time or for good, acculturation is a different
matter. Talk
to a few gringos who’ve been here awhile and
you’ll
inevitably hear, “Well, it’s Mexico.” New
resident gringos spend a lot of time scratching their heads.
They may wonder
where the fellow is who said he would come today and pour the
new cement driveway. They have a hard time understanding why
the Costco
in Cabo makes them wait in the check-out line for printer ink,
and then doesn’t have it in stock. They can’t figure
out why the bank is closed at two o’clock in the afternoon
on a weekday. Learning which things are done differently here
takes time, but it takes even longer to understand why. Sometimes,
the
why has more to do with culture than logic.
Mexico
has a collective culture. This means that Mexicans readily
share with others.
The philosophy is, “What’s mine
is yours.” Mexicans don’t generally expect something
in return, but when they need something, they may just take
it. This part of the philosophy is, “What’s yours
is mine.” In
gringo homelands, the tendency is to be more individualistically
oriented; “What’s mine is mine, and what’s
yours is yours.” When gringos become neighbors or friends
of, or even just friendly acquaintances with, a Mexican,
they are sometimes
shocked and annoyed to discover, for instance, that their
limes have all been picked off the ground right from their
own backyard.
A missing tool, presumed by a gringo to be stolen, may be
in the possession of a Mexican neighbor who’s building
a storage shed. The neighbor is likely only to feel that
it’s
very convenient having this gringo as a neighbor, and the
gringo may
or may not get the tool back. There are gates, walls, locks
and bars on windows for a reason here. Mexicans native to
the Baja
frequently
think it’s understood that if a gringo leaves something
in sight, they have a natural right to it. After all, you’re
in their country and you obviously have more than they do.
They’ll
deny this is stealing, and at least part of this has to do
with their collective culture.

"Pescadero" Oil
Painting by Jolyn Wells-Moran, Ph.D.
The
collective culture is taken for granted by most Mexicans,
just as the individualistic one is by the gringos. Most Mexicans
won’t
think to explain it to a gringo because they just don’t
think about it, just as gringos may not think to explain
their notions
of ownership. This is often part of culture shock for gringos
in Baja Sur.
Tom
Vineyard, a real estate associate with Paraiso California in
El Pescadero, just moved there in December
from Dallas,
Texas, and admits to another aspect of culture shock. “I
asked my boss about a piece of land we’re handling;
like where’s
the infrastructure? How can I sell it? What about paved
roads and electricity?” Tom laughed. “He says
it’s
coming, but, who knows when.”
Luckily,
there are plenty of Pescadero properties that already have
electricity,
although rarely do they have
paved streets.
Tom seems to be getting used to expecting the unexpected
in Baja Sur.
He says he didn’t know before coming here that
some things would be so inexpensive, like renting a house,
and
some items and
services, like large appliances, would cost more than
he had imagined. As a business major with many years
of business
experience, he
says the pricing just doesn’t make any sense that
he can figure out.
Maybe
the Merriam Webster Online Dictionary is correct that culture
shock means, “A sense of
confusion and uncertainty, sometimes with feelings
of anxiety that may affect people exposed to an alien
culture or environment without adequate preparation.” It
doesn’t say how one would ever become adequately
prepared beforehand, though.
Being
perplexed by a lot of what he has found here has been a trial
for Tom.
He’s a guy that’s used to understanding
his world, and his has definitely changed. He loves
getting to know
new people, though, and enjoys the simpler lifestyle
in Baja Sur. He says meeting new people helps him feel
more at home here.
Molly
Fox has been living in Cabo for 23 years, but originally hailed
from Chicago where she worked in
a bank. “Cabo,
back then, was a very small town,” she said. When Molly
and her husband moved here, she said, “I felt like we were
pioneers.” Baja
is still often referred to as, “a last
frontier.” Thinking
of the new life in Baja Sur as an adventure may
help with acculturation.
“It’s
still hard to adjust to the mañana mode, but
there’s not anything wrong with it,” she
says. Mexicans
native to Baja Sur are almost invariably later than they say
they’ll
be. It seems to gringos that the more in
a rush they are to get something accomplished,
the more their Mexican
friends or employees procrastinate. While
this may be true—after
all, Mexicans are forever saying that gringos
are too impatient—there
is surely often at least some sabotage involved.
What the Mexican will rarely say, because
it would be impolite, is that gringos
act as if they have a right to get their
priorities met, they often don’t feel
this way themselves and even in their own
country, and they refuse
to be what they think would be slave-like
with gringos. Having a regular job, with
pre-set
expectations, a time
schedule and a supervisor is not a natural
state for Mexicans native to Baja Sur. Ask
any local builder or restaurant owner and
they’ll
usually tell you they like to hire mainland
Mexicans, for that very reason.
A
friend, who originally came from Mexico City and owns a restaurant
in Baja Sur, says he has tried for years to keep a local Mexican
employed in his restaurant. “They
don’t show
up or will work a couple of days and not
show. They complain about the work, the
hours, come in late and gripe about the
pay. I tell
them they’ll get pay increases when
they’ve worked
for me for a couple of months, but I’ve
never been able to keep one on that long,” he
says
My
friend speculates that this is because the people native to
Baja have always been
able
to survive
easily by living
off the
land and sea, that they prize
time with family above all else and they would rather
spend time socializing with friends than
working.
When they’ve worked for someone
else, it has usually been in a field
for a day
or a few days at a time. There’s
also the fact that every other native
family here has some small business they
run
themselves. When someone in the family does have
a business, even selling tacos only on
Saturdays
in the high season, it’s likely
that everyone in the extended family will have turns
working and
earning in it. In any case,
someone
in the family will probably give them money food,
or other goods in a pinch.
My
neighbor, another local business owner
and originally from Acapulco, says
she thinks that if you weren’t born
and raised here, you are seen as an
outsider. She has lived here for over 10 years
and says she has, “a
terrible time” getting anyone local to work
for her and her husband. She says that might be,
too, because regular jobs have only become available
in the past decade or two here and they haven’t
recognized that to get the things they now see
that so many gringos have brought to the area,
one
has to work for them. She suggests that there is
an attitude here, common among formerly oppressed
peoples, that they won’t kowtow to an employer.
She shakes her head in frustration, “They
just don’t see that the things
they see outsiders own can only be purchased if
they’ll
work a regular job, and yet, they are angry and
envious of those possessions.”
It
may not be helpful, at least to gringos and other non-natives
of Baja Sur living here, that
Mexican
labor law protects workers
far more
than
employers.
A local Mexican has far more rights and becomes
a regular employee more easily, than do citizens
in
most other
parts of the world.
Generous severance
packages,
even after a short duration of employment, are
mandated in many cases. Holidays are frequent,
benefits are
common and
employers
have few
avenues of recourse
if employees are not performing satisfactorily
on the job.
Yet,
Jaime Dobies, a US citizen who has lived in El Pescadero for
13 years, has had the opposite
experience. He says
it has to do
with relationships,
perhaps not surprising in a region where survival
has
historically depended on strong
human relationships. Dobies owns and operates
the
El Pescadero Surf Camp, a popular spot for
tourist surfers
near Playa
Los Cerritos. He employs
several local native Mexicans gardeners and
maintenance people, and
says he has never
had a problem with an employee because he treats
them all like “brothers.” He
has learned the language well, gets to know
each employee personally and is a flexible
employer,
but even more importantly, he treats every
employee as
a member of his family. This includes having
them to his home for meals, being generous
with what he has, getting to know their relatives,
interacting with
the utmost respect by always asking, rather
than
telling, them what tasks need to be done and
in what broad timeframe. He doesn’t
pay a lot, but he keeps satisfied employees
who he also considers
friends.
Acculturating
to Baja Sur takes time, strong relationship-building skills,
patience,
and
perhaps, above all, that
attribute most highly valued by
Baja Sur Mexicans, a sense of humor. It also
helps if you don’t
try to do anything quickly.
Source
Culture Shock
One entry found for culture shock.
Function: noun
: a sense of confusion and uncertainty sometimes with feelings
of anxiety that may affect people exposed to an alien culture
or environment without adequate preparation
Merriam Webster Online Dictionary
http://www.m-w.com/dictionary/culture%20shock |